Developing Steps and Review

Posted on September 2, 2014 by Staypuft

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Here is what you need:

Chemicals: Kodak T-Max Developer and Fixer.
List of ingredients: Vinegar, rubbing alchohol, and water
Materials: Measuring cups, Timer, Storage Bottles (labels, charts, and mixing ratio on the bottle are very helpful), Wire, a Completely Darked out room, Binder clips, Pillows and blankets to put under door and block out light, Bottle opener, Small plastic tube from a pen, Roll of tape (for a weight), Film reels for developing (choose appropriate size for the mm of film you are using, and a Container large enough to hold the film reel and has a water tight lid
Tools: Plyers, and Scissors

Step 2: Developer

My developer: Was 1 part concentrate to 4 parts water. So Mix it up and store it in a bottle, I like using gatorade bottles cause they are thick and sturdy. Before you put anything in any of the bottles wash them with hot water so no sugary residue will be left on the film. I also put labels on the bottle along with timing charts. It is a good idea to use different bottles cause in the dark you cant tell the difference in the dark.

Step 3: Stop Bath

The Stop Bath: is simply 1 part vinegar 4 parts water, and it stops the film from developing.

Step 4: Fixer

The Fixer: is probably the most complicated cause you cant mix all of it up at once. It has a shelf life of two months. It is also a weird ratio. From what I can remember it is 0.8 fixer powder to 3 parts water? All fixer is different so figure out the logistics of all the chemicals you have purchased.

Step 5: Wetting Agent

Wetting Agent: is rubbing alcohol. It prevents water marks on the film when itdries. You can buy photo-flo for cheap but I have no access to such. Detergents are good too.

Step 6: Developing Tank

The Developing Tank: is basically a plastic container with a lid. You will be agitating the fluids inside of the tank so it needs to be tight.
Agitator rod: I used a pen tube for the body. I put an eraser in the end so all of the chemicals dont get into body of it.

Step 7: Dark Room

Dark Room: Preferably a bathroom. Because it is nearly a dust-free area (the steam settles the dust) and it has a sink. Having a sink is really nice when you are washing the film, and after you can wash your tank and reels with hot water. Any room is really fine as long as it is completely dark. The test is if you cant see a white sheet of paper after five minutes you are fine. Pillows and blankets are great to put under doors and cracks that may let in sunlight.

Step 8: Now to set everything up

Put everything in your dark room: and we will start loading the film. (no film was harmed solely for this instructable) First I would suggest knowing how to load the film on the reel. Now get in the dark room make sure you have everything. I would recomend having a dark thick blanket to wrap the film up in incase you forget something. This happened when i forgot scissors.

Now in the dark room: have your bottle opener prepared along with your roll of film. Pop of the bottom. take out the film on the spool, make sure you are not touching the surface of the film. Now cut off the end of the film for easier loading onto the reel. Put the end of the film into the reel and start winding it on. Here is a helpful video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY7OeJmwnJ0&feature=related .

Step 9: Pour in Developer

Pour in developer: Make sure to read all the directions, time it right, and dont forget to agitate. All developer is different.

Step 10: Pour Out and Add Stop Bath

Pour out the developer. Now add the stop bath, I let it soak for five minutes. Then I poured it out added tap water, agitated and poured out again.

Step 11: Now For The Fixer

Now add the fixer: I did a little research and they said leave the film in for around7-15 minutes. I left mine in for 13 minutes it came out fine.

Step 12: Wash Wash Wash

WASH WASH WASH WASH: thats it run it under the water until you completely know that no fixer is left on the film, you can do this with the light on.

Step 13: Hang

Pop Art Before and After

Posted on September 2, 2014 by Staypuft

Before

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After

PHOTOGRAM RESEARCH

Posted on August 28, 2014 by Staypuft

PHOTOGRAM: A Photogram is a photographic image made without a Camera by placing objects directly onto the surface of a light-sensitive material such as photographic paper and then exposing it to light. The usual result is a negative shadow image that shows variations in tone that depends upon the transparency of the objects used. Areas of the paper that have received no light appear white; those exposed through transparent or semi-transparent objects appear grey. ~ www.photograms.org/

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Two major artists who shoot photgrams are:

1: Greg Stimac

2: Man Ray

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6 examples of Photograms to get your feet wet:

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For my photograph I plan on using a pair of Black & White Converse for the photogram. This should come out as a very good looking picture.

10 Top Photo Tips Summaries

Posted on August 28, 2014 by Staypuft

So, you want to take a picture? Well you had best consider these tips before you do. Or your picture might come out looking like a dog sat on your camera. Keep in mind these are just quick summaries and all the original tips are found here (http://tinyurl.com/4j6a5go)

Rule Of Thirds: The rule of thirds is basically a grid that gives guidelines on where to have your subject placed. Toproperly use the Grid (Which on some cameras is actually a visual thing) You are advised to place your subject on the lines and/or in intersecting points on the grid.

Rule 1

Balancing Elements: So you have two or more subjects in your picture? Well have I got a solution. Basically you have to balance the subjects “Weight” on the sides of the picture and not in the center.

Rule 2

Leading Lines: The human eye is trained to stare at lines before anywhere else. In photo, be sure to have your subject and any points of interest near lines.

Symmetry and Patterns: symmetry and patterns are a key point of interest and keep the OCD people contained.

Rule 4

Viewpoint: A high or low viewpoint can make a scene beautiful. If you can’t get the shot at ground level. ELEVATE yourself

Rule 5

Background: The background in your photo can have multiple effects. It can make the image pop, or it can drown it out in the scenery or blankness of the background.

Depth: The depth of your photo is how far it goes back, for large scenes like the wilderness, having an area with a large depth of field can be very important,

Rule 7

Framing: For your photo, using the wilderness as a natural frame can make just about any scene amazing, you can try and use the trees around a pond, or the tigers next to the prey.

Rule 8

Cropping: If your photo is too wide and you aren’t able to focus the key point, crop it down so that it focuses your subject.

Rule 9

Experimentation: When taking pictures be sure to take multiple and then go back and delete unwanted ones until you get the shot you were looking for from the start.